Cycling PNG and Port Moresby

There is very little relevant reference on the 'net' to PNG cycling or cycling Port Moresby so I thought if I devoted a brief page to the activities of the cycling group I belong to, it may be a way for others to discover that there is actually at least one (decent) cycling group in Port Moresby with more on the way. I say this because, before I left Sydney, I was given all sorts of good advice about "well, that will be the end of your cycling for a while". Despite the doomsdayers, I packed both bikes for PNG - the racing bike accompanied me on the plane. The 'hybrid' was shipped with my indoor trainer, assuming that I would be spending several years on the trainer. I felt rather 'silly' carrying my racing bike in the sleek new cycle carry bag out of Jackson International, wondering what people were thinking. The rest is history. You can read below how I met some characters in the local shopping centre on my second Saturday in the country, and it turns out that they are part of a neat small but rather elite crew who are not so shabby on their bikes. So if you are reading this, and coming to PNG and especially Port Moresby, just contact me.

Today we said goodbye to one of our number. Phil Price has been here for several years and is returning to live in Canberra. We planned an early morning ride (he insisted I should not miss 'church' this morning, so we had to ride at dawn and then gather for sausages and eggs at his place with panoramic views all over the ocean. It poured with rain all night, so the ride was called off, but we had a great breakfast in any case. I will attach some photos when I get more time. I am just testing this to see if 'google' will respond if anyone in the world enquires about cycling in PNG. The only other reference is to the guy last year who carried his bike over the Kokoda Track as part of his 'round the world' cycle trip. I 'googled' before leaving Sydney, and it didn't have any good news for me. Hopefully this will be helpful to cyclists making their home in Port Moresby. Just email me. We ride both MTB's and Road bikes (I mostly ride the steel framed hybrid. The roads are fine , maybe the occasional pothole, but so does the Great Western Highway through Sydney!

We ride Mon-Wed-Fri at 5:30am. Its a 'brisk' one hour ride with one punishing hill at the start - then its all pleasure with some nice views thrown in. Its mostly safe - the most dangerous stretch we do down through the infamous "Two Mile" - but we go too fast for anyone to hold us up! There are some great weekend rides out into the country - again its been quite safe, although we do usually arrange a car to follow.

Up The Creek....

The last week of February took Kelvin up to 'The Gulf' - just follow the coast on your map north west from Port Moresby to the Gulf region, the major town being Kerema. We departed by twin-cab four wheel drive ute - all five of us - with six large plastic containers of petrol in the back! After four hours we transferred from the ute to a motorised dinghy for the final two hours, because the dirt road into Kerema was too risky by vehicle. We were heading north for the official opening of the Japanese Industry Corporation (JICA) Water project, a partnership with the Salvation Army Japan and PNG, involving ten village communities 'way up river' from Kerema. The first photo shows our dinghy just after we left the river for a magnificent trip on the open sea, along coastline with some of the most gloriously preserved villages that seem not to have changed for hundreds of years. We stayed overnight in a local Christian Hostel, which had a cold shower, bed bugs and chicken on the menu every single night! We spent a day touring the villages up the river system, at times pushing the boat with sticks because it was too shallow for the motor. At times we had to wade through the river because it was not navigatable by boat. We were always beautifully received. The children are in epidemic proportions, and love to have their photo taken! The JICA project built 28 water tanks in 10 villages whose only other sourve of water ever, was the river with all its contaminants. The project also included 250 toilets, and teaching of the community in health, hygiene and community development. I couldn't believe my eyes when I caught sight of a bike - no roads up here - all basically river transport or foot, and here is a guy with a bike! The villagers always turn on a very warm reception, with music and dancing. Children also hide in mud puddles completely concealed, and then jump up in order to scare you as you walk past. The air is then filled with laughter, especially if you pretend to be scared. We didn't see the kids in the mud. They must breath under water! It is so wonderful to be welcomed in the traditional ways - we notice that even though the women folk who had moved on in years, it didn't stop their enthusiasm and energy when it came to dancing us into the villages. The Gulf region is very flat, with a massive system of rivers that feed down from the mountains and carve their way through the many miles of thick jungle. The villages are numerous and built usually on the edge of the rivers to allow access for water, but also to enable to villagers to fish and to use the rivers system for transport. It was a magnificent day out on the water. We came home to Kerema and were hosted to a magnificent spread of local food at the home of the local Salvation Army Regional Officers. This was local food purchased for us at the local market, including the local delicacy which is crab. The evening was spent wrestling with bed bugs before we donned our 'Sunday best' for a return trip up river again, this time to the Village of Laparis where the main Opening celebrations were being held. We had two dinghys this time, and we can't explain it but we had the company of four uniformed police, one armed with a semi-automatic machine gun which he cuddled into his chest as he sat opposite me in the dinghy. This fellow said nothing all day, except he did sort of smile when I finally plucked up courage to ask if I could take his photo! There was a village just packed with excitement at Laparis when we finally arrived. The trick for us was to get out of the boat up muddy banks and walk through jungle paths without getting our neat uniforms in a mess. No wading rivers today, but the children caught us totally by surprise some hundreds of metres from the village - they were completely submerged in the mud, springing up and spraying Captain Christine Gee's lovely white uniform with mud. They laughed and danced in front of us all the way into the village. The village has some 3000 people who have never had access to clean water, especially running water. Today we would open a gravity fed system that filled a large tank on the edge of the village, and then pipe water to at least seven outlets in the village where people just had to turn on a tap for their water needs. The village now has village toilets, instead of 3,ooo people 'going bush' every day, they now have several 'public' toilets. When I entered the village, the beautiful reception committee gave me a bilam which was adorned with at least four river crabs and parts of crabs! It was an offence not to wear it, so for the next several hours I paraded my bilam around my neck with its adorment of now odorous crabs. The odour of dead and drying crabs is one thing, but they attracted all the flies in the village too. I gave my speech in the official proceedings with my bilam, my crabs and 'a thousand' flies to the hardly concealed amusement of all concerned. It was a great day in Papua New Guinea. Our boats struggled in the shallow river system to get home that afternoon, my plane was on time and flew over while we were still stuck up the river. I stayed overnight to fly home next day, sharing my very small plane with a boy nursing two chickens on his lap (and I am sure I heard his mother say her snake was in a box in the back of the (small) 15 seater plane! Those who did the return trip by dinghy on the open sea were hit by a storm, nearly capsizing the boat. No life kackets - its PNG - so I know they were counting the now empty petrol containers in the boat! We all made it home all the richer for our experiences!

Family Factors

The last day of February will be a day always remembered in our family. Our newest grandson - Cody Ethan Alley - made his dramatic entrance into the world. Cody is the 1st baby for our son Graeme and his wife Minnie. Being born on 29 February, Cody is a genuine 'leapling'. He will be 'stoked' at his birthday because its the same day as his other Granfather - Darryl Anderson (Minnie's Dad) from whom we have been unable to remove the broad grin from his face! Family is important to us here in Papue New
Guinea. We have a large family 'back home' who love us and support us in every way. Knowing that we will be away from our family for so long makes the decision process more challenging. However in all these things, we bring them before the Lord and trust in His greater plan and provision for all of us. I particularly want to devote today's jottings to my mother, Betty Alley. Mum is not quite 'computer savvy', but at 86 years of age we don't expect her to. However, she does follow the 'blog' with great interest, so I thought she would get a 'kick' out of seeing herself on the internet - probably the first time. So mum, if you ask Brett to 'Google' your name, you will find hopefully now that this site will come up, which means that anyone in the world can read about you and see your photo. My mother is faithful in prayer every day for us in our ministry. These photos were taken not long before we left for PNG. I visited Mum with our daughter Sarah-Jane. The photo I particularly value is the one of Mum leaning over the balcony of her unit, a place where she has been hundreds of times over the thirty years or so that she has lived and owned her own Unit in
Canberra. This is always the final view we get of 'Nana' as we drive away from her Unit, a scene we have cherished countless times. I threw this one in Mum, because it was one of those rare moments where Julie and I are together with oursister Dawn. This photo was taken just days before our final departure for PNG, having a final meal with Mum and sister Dawn before a teary farewell that night. Family is not complete without Jack, the elder now of our two grandsons. We are able to see and speak to Jack now due to the technology of SKYPE. He gets very excited to see us and hear our voices, and even wants to give kisses to Grandma and Grandad through the computer screen. Jack is 2yrs and 3 months and is developing into a wonderful little boy. Well, I hope that Nana enjoys her photos on the 'net' for the world to see. We send our love to everyone 'back home'. There is much to share, and hopefully as time permits we can update you on some of the adventurous journeys that have taken place in these past few weeks.

Please note that you can leave a comment - just click on 'comments' and jot away.....

A Funny Thing Happened at the Supermarket!

It was the first Saturday. We were having coffee at the Supermarket and the lights went out (black-outs are regular). We had noticed the Aussie guy about my age sitting at the next table. The place fell into complete blackness - all we heard was the voice "Get your hands off me, Barry!" The generator kicked in - the lights came back - and he was still there alone at his table with his paper, but a wry smile on his (and our) face. We noticed him the next week as well - same table, reading the paper. We had coffee then did the trolley thing up and down the aisles. Thats when we bumped into another Aussie. Our trolleys met - he said he was ''Angus". I said "you must meet my wife with a name like that - she too has Scottish heritage". I mentioned our recent bike trip to Scotland, and before we knew it - he went and brought the other Aussie (the one reading the paper) - they were the nucleus of the Port Moresby cycling group! I found a new group. The bike would see the roads of Port Moresby after all.
The group is about 8-9 quite excellent cyclists. They mostly ride Mountain bikes, but one has a road bike. I missed the following week because my gear hadn't yet arrived (just the bike that came with me on the plane) but from the following Monday I was on my way in the dark just after 5am to the meeting point at the POM Yacht Club. Its a brisk 26k around the outskirts of Port Moresby with a security car in tow to keep an eye on us. We ride three mornings each week, with usually a Sunday ride to places much
further afield which doesn't always suit me. However, two weeks
ago we cycled out to Rouna Falls on the Sogeri plateau - the photo looks back to Port Moresby - a punishing climb over the final 1-2k on steep hills not meant for ordinary bikes. The group that day was Phil (from the Supermarket), Steve, Annie (an excellent cyclist!) and her partner David. It was a taste of the beautiful surrounds of Port Moresby, which is also the road out to the Kokoda Track - thats to come.
We have decided to make the Boroko Salvation Army 'our' church even though it is pigin speaking. It is also on the Boroko SArmy compound and only minutes walk from home. The people are so lovely. The singing is magnetic and uplifting - its in both english and pigin. The place is full every Sunday, made out of timber with glass louvred sides to allow the breeze. The 'pews' are hard, the weather always hot - there is no such thing as air-conditioning - but somehow it feels wonderful, comfortable and regrettable when its all over. The photos show John (our next door neighbour) with two precious people, the church building amidst the palms and trees at the front of our compound, and two precious girls - Julieanne and Gladys who are also our neighbours and whom we have easily come to love and embrace.

It All Begins.........

It was not until Wednesday 9 January 2008 that we finally had the call to say our Visas were approved. They were delivered from Canberra Thursday, and we were at Sydney International Airport on Friday 11 January en route to a new land (well, new to us) - Papua New Guinea. The night before, Sarah-Jane and Doug took us to dinner at Circular Quay - a most fitting way to celebrate our departure not just from family, but from our country as well.

The flight went to Brisbane where we had the last chance to see Julie's Mum, Dad and brother John. With yet another teary goodbye, we boarded Air Nuigini with people who put it beyond doubt that we were headed to a completely new and distinctly different culture. We landed in the afternoon, curious about a lot of things. It wasn't quite as hot as we expected. We were met at the airport and taken to our home - The Salvation Army compound at Boroko, some 4 miles from Port Moresby docks. The streets were full of the local people. We passed markets that were a gathering place for people from the city and especially villages from miles around. The Salvation Army Headquarters is a modern building at the front of the compound which is surrounded by an 8ft fence strung with razor wire. Its the size of a city block almost, and also contains the Primary School where Julie is Administrator, the High School, a College for distance and flexible learning, a Driving School, and quite a number of residences for Officers. Our house is attached like a siamese twin to the identical School
Administration Block. This picture shows our front door and joining verandah to the school block. Our bedroom is far right window which looks directly into Julie's office off screen to the right. Stairs go down to ground, and we have lots of covered space under the house for clothes line. The verandah is lovely in the evening for breezes (but also mozzies that love Julie - so she can't sit out there!). The next picture shows the two buildings - our house is ar right with bedroom window just showing. Its a four bedroom house (tiny bedrooms) but quite comfortable.

We were shown around town on Saturday by
Captain Margaret McLeod with whom we have developed a great friendship - a Canadian. See the first shopping of veges at the local market. Our work started on Monday 14th at the office - we were welcomed formally at morning tea by Headquarters staff at the Monday 'Prayers' with coffee and lamingtons, and then Julie went one way (to the School) and I went another (upstairs to the top floor to my office to begin the long haul of working out what we were meant to do. Julie has a great team of women in the office - some 4 very competent and pleasant (they laugh, laugh and laugh!) national women. The school has almost 800 students - one of the best in the country. I (kelvin) look after the Program
Department for the SArmy in the conutry - which includes vast numbers of 'Churches' all over, Health posts, the Schools, the social welfare work, HIV/AiDS projects, and a vast array of significant projects that are funded by donors such as AUSAID, UNICEF, World Health, European Union and the Japanese Government to name many but not all. My first week ended with an invite to a settlement just outside Port Moresby called ATS (Air Transport Squadron) which takes its name from the Airport Training Squadron just nearby. It was a bone shaking drive alone in my little 4x4 Suzuki on roads

that would be closed if they were in Australia. It was hot, dusty but wonderfully welcoming as I shared a most uplifting time in a timber shack on a hillside with a group of mothers from the settlement who had been together all week as part of a Salvation Army outreach/teaching program. The final worship time was superb, only exceeded by the beautiful celebration meal that was turned on to bring the week to a close. Sadly, Julie had to stay at the school to prepare for the onslaught of 800 students only days away. It was a great week. My only quandary was - would either of the two bikes I brought with me ever get out of the house. There were no signs of bikes on the streets, and the advice given me since arrival was not to venture outside the compound. I fell the Lord had other considerations in mind. More next time. We are grateful for even small mercies - but ever so grateful to be part of God's purposes for the growth of His Kingdom in this most wonderful nation. We send our love.